So if you are a potential GIYer and do intend starting a programme or project of growing your own vegetables, you might be interested in the following advice . So whether your motivation is to reduce air miles or taste organic food, there are some important points to consider when planning to start a vegetable garden.

Does size matter? No – not really, whether you have a pot, an old kitchen sink, a window sill or a sprawling site, growing your own vegetables is not only easy and exciting, it is also very rewarding.

Location – unless of course you enjoy longer walks through your garden, for practical reasons, the vegetable plot or kitchen garden should ideally be positioned nearer the house.
More importantly best to choose a position which permits the vegetable plot to enjoy a sunny aspect for much of the day. Although some vegetable produce will tolerate some shade (for example lettuce, runner beans etc), most won’t, so pick the site very carefully, pick a sunny and a sheltered position, avoid exposed windy sites. Other site aspects worth considering include picking a site where the prevailing ground conditions are level and free draining. Finally do bear in mind that good soil conditions will also be required, whether you prepare the ground by digging or mix in new soil or soil conditioners, most vegetables will require a growing depth of at least 300mm.

What to grow? Some might have favourites, some might stick with old reliable:
• Potatoes are good, and probably one of the easiest to grow, they are also great at breaking down heavy soils. But do remember to give them plenty of water.
• Leeks – easy to grow from seed and young leek tastes wonderful
• Broad beans – very tasty when young but are very easy to grow
• Sweetcorn – harvest when tassels are brown and boil in salted water
• Radishes – many different varieties to choose from, but an ideal and fast growing crop from which to teach the children GIY
• Runner Beans – quick growing, plentiful and pick and with lots of pick’n’grow fun

Deciding on the Layout – is important especially where space might be limited. For example you can grow some varieties at ground level whilst others such as French and Runner Beans can be trained to grow very effectively up trellising or bamboo canes. In larger sites, plan a series of long narrow beds which are easily accessible from both sides, but do remember to leave plenty of space between the growing beds, for example you should be able to move along pathways between beds with a wheelbarrow or more importantly if you like to get down on your hand and knees and get dirty, you’ll need at least 900mm – 1200mm spacing between the beds. Growing beds can be ground level on larger sites or raised on smaller sites or where soil conditions are poor. Raised beds can be developed using soil from other sites and mixing with compost, manures, soil conditioners etc. Also because they are raised you can ensure that drainage is good. As stated earlier, most vegetables prefer to grow in sunny areas, therefore it make sense to orientate beds on a north south axis, this ensures that all vegetable get sun each day. Be generous on spacing between beds, and consider a surface material so that all weather access is possible.

Ground Preparation – the better the soil, the better the performance, it is not impossible to provide good growing conditions. Vegetables require nutrients, water and oxygen. Soil plays a vital role in providing nutrients to plants. So it is important to prepare ground by digging to improve plants take up of nutrients. Alternatively if ground conditions are poor, you can use raised beds to provide better growing conditions for plants. In contrast to the ‘dig system’ the concept of using Raised Beds is sometimes referred to as the ‘No dig system’. Raised beds can be constructed from a variety of boards/timbers, recycled pallet boards, railway sleepers, pressure treated new sleepers, builder’s scaffolding boards all being popular choices.

Using crop rotation wisely – rotating the planting and growing of vegetables yields many benefits in terms of efficiency, bounty and disease/pest control. For example, Broccoli grows well in soils containing good levels of nitrogen, on the other hand, beans put nitrogen into the soil. Potatoes with the large canopy of foliage are very effective at suppressing weeds, whereas onions grow particularly very well in weed free soils. So from a crop rotational perspective, one would plant beans before of broccoli and potatoes before of onions.

Starting a rotation cycle – you should plan for at least three years, meaning the same vegetable will grow in the same spot every third year. However if you wish to also grow potatoes, better to use a four year rotation. The RHS has a very simple way to remember where each vegetable comes within the cycle: British Rail Late, where:

B = brassicas (cabbage, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, kale, turnips etc) was
R = roots (beetroot, parsnips, carrots)
L = legumes (peas, Broad bean, French bean, Runner bean, onions, garlic, chives)

How it works in practice is in area 1, you plant brassicas first year, roots in second year and legumes in third year. In area 2, you plant roots first year, legumes second year and brassicas third year. In area 3, you plant legumes first followed by brassicas and roots.

Maintenance – providing you have done good ground preparation, maintenance of the area shouldn’t be much more than adding a good fertiliser (Fish Bone & Blood) before planting or manure in Autumn. Watering is important especially during the early vulnerable stage, again bets done early in morning or late in evening and always check to make sure water is getting down to plant roots. Weed regularly to avoid unwanted competition for nutrients and water.

If at first you don’t succeed – try again. Sometimes it is only as a result of trial and error that you will discover what grows best for you in your area and conditions. Don’t be afraid to ask other local gardeners for tips or advice with particular problems, most of all, have fun in growing your own vegetables and join the burgeoning legion of GIY enthusiasts..

For more information, visit: http://www.owenchubblandscapers.com/news/entry/grow-it-yourself-where-to-start/

Plant Time:

The two best times for planting cabbage is during the early spring and later in the fall. A winter crop may be grown as long as this is in an area where the temperatures do not get below freezing often. The cabbage should not be planted at a time that will mean when the plants mature the weather is hot.

Pant location:

Cabbage does not like to be grown in full sun, moderate shade will yield better results. Cabbage needs moisture regularly. Regular watering and adding a layer of mulch will provide the plant with the moisture they need.

Feeding the plant:

When the cabbage begins to head, adding a 5-10-10 fertilizer with good compost will help the plants head develop fully. You should always keep the fertilizer away from the stem of the plant to avoid potential burning. Be sure to water the area well so the fertilizer will seep into the ground where the roots can use it.

When growing cabbage one garden pest to keep an eye on is the cutworm. They are either gray or brown and look like moths. They can usually be found in the soil around the plants. The adults will lay eggs starting in May and when they hatch the larvae feed on grass and plants between 3 and 5 weeks. Cutworm collars are method of keeping the insects at bay. Predatory insects like green lacewings and praying mantis will help control the cutworm.

Certainly if you go to the shops to buy your vegetables they will never be as fresh as the ones you pick yourself from your own garden. Many of the vegetables you pick ready for including in your Sunday dinner are also very tasty to eat in their natural state. In fact I have often found myself nibbling on peas while I have been picking them for dinner. They taste great fresh out of the pod. If you have a greenhouse, why not have a go at growing your own tomatoes and other things like peppers and chillies. In fact, it’s great to be able to wander outside and just pick yourself a fresh tomato to eat whenever you like.

There is another advantage to growing your own vegetables too and that is that you know exactly what went in to creating them. You can be 100% certain whether or not pesticides and other chemicals were used on your crop. This is great knowledge to have, especially if you have children and want to be careful about exactly what you are feeding them. No matter what the labels say in the shops, this is something you may never be 100% sure about when you buy vegetables from the shop.

There are some sprays you may want to use to keep pests and diseases at bay but even so, you are in control. Make sure you read the labels and you can be sure exactly what you are spraying on your plants. Wherever possible though, try and go for a natural solution. For example, when growing tomatoes one of the most common problems is white fly. You can reduce their impact quite a lot though by growing French Marigolds close by. This is because the Marigold’s pungent odour will mask the scent of the tomato plants and therefore they will not as easily attract the pest. There are other companion plants you can use to keep different pests away from your other vegetables as well.

If you are concerned about disease then it is within your control to select the variety of vegetable to grow that will flourish in your environment and also be resistant to disease. It is this control that allows you to do anything you want in your garden. So, if you have a spare piece of ground in your garden, why not consider growing a few vegetables for yourself. You will be rewarded time and again if you do.

Sowing Winter Crops

Winter crops are extremely hardy and can survive in temperatures down to -12 0C (10 0F). They may generally be sown into the open ground. However, instead of sowing them directly into their final growing place where they may take up space that could be used by summer crops, make a separate seedbed to start them off then move them once the summer crops have been harvested.

The seeds should ideally be sown in spring (generally between March and May) into moist seed drills 1-2.5 cm (1/2-1 in) deep and spaced 15 cm (6 in) apart. You should try to aim for a gap of 5-10 cm (2-4 in) between each seed. When you have covered the seed drill with soil, protect the emerging plants from bad weather and pests with a sheet of garden fleece, which can may be removed as the weather becomes warmer.

As the seedlings develop, pull out any weak or spindly plants, leaving the strong plants at the correct spacing. This spacing will vary, so always check the seed packet for advice. Kale should be given a nitrogenous top-dressing to encourage growth.

Transplanting Winter Crops

In the summer (between June and July) the young plants can be moved and planted in spaces left by harvested summer crops. Water the seedbed well, and then lift the plants out gently, disturbing the roots as little as possible.

Brussels sprouts – Space 60 cm (24 in) apart. Broccoli – Space 60 cm (24 in) apart and apply nitrogen-based fertilizer. Leeks – Plant in holes 15-20 cm (6-8 in) deep, 15 cm (6 in) apart. Fill the hole with water and allow the soil to fall in as the plant grows. Kale (dwarf) – Space 30-45 cm (12-18 in) apart. Kale (tall) – Space 75 cm (30 in) apart.

Winter-grown vegetables may be vulnerable to pests such as pigeons and rabbits, so you may need to protect them with netting.

Harvesting Winter Crops Brussels sprouts – Can be harvested 20 weeks after sowing, although their nutty flavour is often enhanced if subjected to frost. Collects the sprouts from the base of the plant; the upper sprouts will continue to develop. Broccoli – Ready to harvest in 11-14 weeks after sowing. Cut off the main broccoli head when it is 7-10 cm (3-4 in) in diameter and before the flowers begin to open; this will encourage the sideshoots to develop. These should be harvested when they reach 7 cm (3 in). Kale – Most cultivars can be harvested 7 weeks after sowing, but may be left to stand in the ground for some time. Snap off leaves during autumn and winter to encourage new growth. Leeks – May be harvested 16-20 weeks after sowing, but may be left to stand for many months. Leave in the ground until ready to use.

How to Grow Sprouts

Growing sprouts is so cheap and easy – remember growing cress at school? It’s nearly as easy. You can buy a 3 level germinator or a single container, available from any good health food shop, add in a pack of seeds and your away. To grow your sprouts……

in cold water soak your seeds overnight

drain the seeds and spread them evenly in you germinator, making sure they are not clumped together

place them in a well lit spot but not in full sunlight

twice a day pour fresh cold water over the seeds and after 5-7 days – depending on seed variety – they’ll be ready to eat

they can then be stored in a container in your fridge for 5-7 days. If you’re using the 3 level germinator, the water will drain to the bottom to be thrown away. With the single germinator you have to tip the jar to let the water drain away

What To Grow

There are loads of things you can grow, some easier than others. Some of the most popular include:

mung bean seeds (chinese bean sprouts)
alfalfa seeds
lentil seeds
radish seeds
clover seeds
buckwheat
chickpeas

One to definitely avoid are kidney beans, as they are toxic when raw.

How To Enjoy The Benefits

Eat your sprouted seeds raw and you’ll get all the benefits of this energy packed nutritious food. Or add them to your sandwiches, use as a side dish with a main course, sprinkle on top of soup, use them in a salad. Whilst it doesn’t do any harm, cooking or heating your sprouts is not recommended as this will strip them of the nutrients that you have lovingly grown them for.

If you are interested in purchasing different types of seeds, then you can form a better idea by taking a look at an online garden catalog seed. Here, you will discover all the available seeds, whether we are talking about vegetables, herbs or plants. Vegetable seeds can be purchased to grow Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots or celery. One can also grow herbs from seeds, perennial or annual, depending on each person’s individual taste. Herbs seeds are presented by similar resources, being offered with advice on how they should be planted and cared for. The same goes for cucumber seeds, planting tomato seeds or any other type for that matter.

Online, you can find all the varieties that you have familiarized yourself with throughout the years. For each type of vegetable seed present online, you will be informed about name, the amount of seeds contained by the pack and planting instructions. If we were to take artichoke seeds for example, we would have to say that a pack contains a number of 35 seeds and the harvest is best done starting July till September. Planting instructions refer to the productivity of the vegetable in question, including information on watering, snipping and cutting. The buyer will also be informed on the height of the plant, the type of soil preferred by the vegetable and how much does the plant enjoys the sun. There are certain plants that grow well hidden from direct sunlight, so you may want to pay increased attention to the recommendations made.

Before you decide to buy seeds from the Internet, decide whether you want perennial or annual plants. Read the information present online on planting, germination and harvesting, making sure that you pay increased attention to any special requirements. Growing your own garden might seem like a pleasant hobby but it actually takes a lot of hard work and dedication. The first step is indeed to buy seeds online but you will have to do many more things in order to be absolutely certain that your garden grows and develops.

People have been growing their own vegetables since the ancient of times. In fact, it was agriculture that set one of the biggest leaps in human development, allowing people to diversify their diet. Growing your own vegetables might not seem like such a big thing today but the truth is that they do taste better. They do not have any chemicals, no special ingredients to grow them bigger and make them more durable. By purchasing vegetable seeds and growing your own garden, you eat vegetables that are 100% natural and free of any toxic substances!